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The John Lobb brand is a highly respected manufacturers in Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a center of footwear production in the seventeenth century. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the craft techniques developed in the Victorian era.
Modern machines are present but secondary. Specifically, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife touching the cutting table. With feather knives, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is carefully restricted, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
Similar to Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only 60% of each hide is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.
The collection combines iconic staples with modern updates. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen shoes gained longer straps and a thicker sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in the 1950s, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah trainers, which are produced yearly in different shades and textures.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb remains a defining name in the British footwear industry.
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